April 09, 2010
天ぷら新宿つな八 総本店
The humble tempura has been my favorite Japanese dish since forever. Even as a kid I could appreciate the fried goodness of a panko-coated shrimp. Over the years I've had a zillion different versions of tempura, from oil-logged disasters to sublimely light and flavorful fry-ups. We've had nice tasting menus in Japan which offered a course of tempura as a matter of course, but not yet been to a restaurant where the art of frying is the sole purpose. I'd read about the Tsunahachi empire, the tempura specialist with half a dozen outposts in Shinjuku alone. But we were on the wrong side of Shinjuku Station and it's already been a long day of touring so I figured we'll just make do with random-ramen and not make the wife walk all that way. But then she decided she had the energy for some more shopping before the stores closed, which brought us into the heart of Shinjuku once again. Turned out that we were right near the original shop (i.e. 本店 "Honten") that started it all. So I scouted out the location while the wife browsed H&M, and once she got her things I was able to smoothly lead her right to dinner without any apparent indecision or wandering.
As with most historical shops in Japan, Tsunahachi Honten is tucked away in a Shinjuku alley behind Mitsukoshi, serving up fried goodies for more than eighty years. Originally to local laborers, now to office workers and tourists. Even relatively late there was a wait, as we had to contend with late-leaving workers from the Skyscraper District. We were shunted off to a side counter that turned into a foreigner's ghetto. But we got good service and with it being late we were just happy to be able to get a walk-in spot in the packed restaurant before they stopped serving. The counter direct faced hooded vats of hot oil, a proprietary sesame blend. The chef is the intermediary that brings the fresh food from the fryer to you in the most minimal distance possible. It must take utmost Japanese-style dedication to keep those chef's whites starched and sparkling clean even while standing in front of a sputtering fryer all day every day.
Somewhat to my surprise they didn't have a crunchy heavy panko-style tempura crusts that I've had at other high-end restaurants. Instead it was a quick dip in a relatively light batter then straight into the fryer. The coating is designed to keep the fresh juices and flavor locked in without intruding on the flavor of the food, rather than a heavy breading side-dish. The prices were mid-low range, an anytime meal rather than a special splurge. Wife had the basic combination which featured the shrimp, fish, eggplant, sweet-potato, etc. Exactly the basic tempura you'd get at any Japanese restaurant in the world, except here we know it's definitely being done The Right Way, whatever it may be. I had the upgraded meal, with some extra portions, the highlight being the tempura-ed oyster. The frying took off the slimy edge of the oyster, while the breading held in the fresh juices. Complemented with a big bowl of the typical-perfectly cooked Japanese rice. Wash it down with cold draft beer. Almost the same amount of foodie enjoyment as the Michelin-starred French restaurant, for a tenth the price.
天ぷら新宿つな八 総本店
Tempura Shinjuku Tsunahachi, Honten
東京都新宿区新宿3-31-8
03-3352-1012